"SPLENDOUR, SPLENDOUR EVERYWHERE..........."
The words of Sir John Betjeman, extolling the beauty of North Cornwall and indeed the County's coast and countryside
John Betjeman was born in London in 1906 and died in 1994 at Trebetherick, Daymer Bay, a place he grew to know and love as his parents had a house there where he spent his early holidays exploring the sands of Daymer and the Camel Estuary. "And the silver snake of the estuary curls to sleep In Daymer Bay".
This playground was an education in itself for Sir John and the freedom he must have enjoyed in his youth influenced his attitude to the formality of academics and his wish to be an independent and free spirit. As the years rolled on his poetry and prose associated with Cornwall (such as "the Shell Guide to Cornwall" and "Summoned by Bells") became real gems and of great public interest.
Knighted in 1969, Betjeman became Poet laureate IN 1972, AN HONOUR NOT ALWAYS APPRECIATED by those who wish poetry to be more obscure and difficult to appreciate. Sir John's work was more nostalgic and whimsical, perhaps best enjoyed by his contemporaries able to have more of a feel for the images his work conjured up.
His poetry about North Cornwall still fits the scenery today and, hopefully, will do so forever. It describes wonderfully the beauty that surrounds you and in its way complements and enhances the landscape and history of the area. "Betjeman's Cornwall", published by John Murray of London, is probably the best you could read when considering, or actually on, holiday in North Cornwall. You can follow the footsteps of Betjeman leading to hidden coves, enigmatic churches giving you ideas on how to enjoy the area by being as inquisitive as he was on so many excursions.
Lying at rest in St Enodoc churchyard, hidden in the undulating folds of the golf course, you can visit his intricately designed gravestone by following the white stones across the fairways. The church, itself steeped in history and legend, .is worth a visit.
I would recommend a short Betjeman trail for you starting at St Ervan, Rumford ("Those were the years I used to ride for miles to far off churches. One of them that year so worked on me that, if my life was changed, I owe it to St Ervan and his priest in their small hollow deep in sycamores"). and from there on to the Church of St. Protus and St. Hyacinth, Blisland, one of Betjeman's favourites, on the western flank of Bodmin Moor. ("Of all the country churches of the west I have seen, I think the church of St Protus and St Hyacinth, Blisland, Cornwall, is the most beautiful"). From there you should visit another favourite, St Endelienta's at St Endellion, Port Isaac which was Betjeman's main place of worship. ("As we climbed the hill the bells sounded even louder even than the car. 'St Endellion! St Endellion!' they seemed to say"). Your last port of call should be Trebetherick together with Daymer Bay and St Enodoc Church. ("Come on! Come on! This hillock hides the spire, now that one and now none. As winds about the burnished path through lady's finger, thyme and bright varieties of saxifrage, so grows the tiny tenor faint or loud and all things draw towards St Enodoc").
A Betjeman Centre is located at the old railway station, Wadebridge, from where further information on his association with Cornwall and special local events can be obtained. Telephone 01208 812392 for more information.
North Cornwall 2002 - Atlantic Heritage Coast